crankset question

  • Home
  • crankset question
9 replies [Last post]
Anonymous's picture

Why are so many bicycle manufacturers selling new models with cranksets that are made by a different manufacturer than the rest of the components? FSA and Truvative seem to be the main ones that are used when the rest of the equipment is shimano. Is there any advantage to this or would it be better to get the same components throughout.

Anonymous's picture
Marcia (not verified)

Recently switched to new FSA compact (34/50)
w/ ceramic bearings...LOVE it; in spite of the fact that I do run out of gears downhill.

Anonymous's picture
Christian Edstrom (not verified)

It's done to hit a price-point in the market.

Anonymous's picture
David Schlichting (not verified)
Cost Containment

After a few Interbikes, it is easy to observe a manufacturer's stand and pick apart the heirarchies:
maybe 20 bike models, but 3 or 4 actually different FRAMES, each frame has a few different paint jobs to make it look distinctive within the company's product line.
For each of these, price points are differentiated by components: the high end may have a full Shimano/Campy/SRAM group. As you go down the price range, lower level componens are substituted. You always keep the Shimano shifters/derailleurs because that markets well, but start to swap in a Truvative crankset, Cane Creek headset, etc., to lower the ultimate selling price.
Moral of the story: no problem if you see a bike set up like this. Some people have issues with the installation of Truvative and FSA cranks because of loosening issues, some people have problems with ISIS BB, but correct installation procedures should make these non issues. Whatever you buy in this vein, take care to assure everything stays tightened properly.

Anonymous's picture
Philip (not verified)

Based on personal experience I would avoid FSA cranks/bottom brackets, at least the MegaExo line. Even after installation and adjustments by experienced wrenches, I've had numerous problems. But maybe it was just bad luck though.

Anonymous's picture
Zac (not verified)

I'm having problems keeping the left crank arm bolt tight on my FSA SLK megaexo. This seems to be a common problem. I carry an 8mm Allen wrench with me at all times now for it.

Anonymous's picture
Paul O'Donnell (not verified)

I have an FSA SL-K megaexo compact crank on my otherwise Campy equipped bike (Zoltan's recommendation). I have no problems keeping the crankarm tight (are you using locktight?) but after a thousand miles or so, some part of the drivetrain developed a clicking noise, which I could actually feel through the pedals. Sid's pulled it apart, found nothing wrong and re-assembled it, and it's been fine since. I'm approaching another thousand miles on it, so we'll see how that goes.

The 2007 Campy line of cranks looks nice though - next time I'd probably go for that.

Anonymous's picture
David Schlichting (not verified)
Campagnolo UT

Saw the installation of the UT crankset demo'd at Interbike. Time will tell, but I think this is the best and most foolproof system yet.

Anonymous's picture
David Schlichting (not verified)
FSA Crank Install

"Over the winter (yeah, like it's over) I installed an FSA Team Issue Mega Exo MTB crankset on my Spectrum Ti touring bike.
Bearing installation is pretty normal, but the issues seem to have been with the left crank arm installation --and keeping it installed.
I found out by perusing their website that in OCT, 2006 FSA issued a bulletin recommending the use of a ""retaining compound"" --Loctite #641-- on the splines of the axle and left crankarm. This was not supplied in the package my LBS got, so I called FSA and they shipped it to me, no problem.
Crank arm install took a heck of a lot of force, but after 2 rides totalling 100 miles, I have torqued the thing to spec and so far, so good.
I would suggest you go back and reinstall the crank arm with this retaining compound (do not use regular Loctite --this Loctite 641 stuff is NOT a thread locker) and torque to the specified level.
I aslo suggest you use a real torque wrench on the crank arm fixing bolt. The 30 foot pounds specified in probably more than you can get with your basic allen wrench. I would also question the use of a threadlocker on that fixing bolt. The issue is not the looseninf of the fixing bolt, but the crank arm ""settling"" onto the axle.

Anonymous's picture
Bill Vojtech (not verified)

I've got an FSA, (older model carbon) on my Seven. It didn't come on it, I specified it. Why because it's pretty. Sexy cranks make you go FASTER!

cycling trips