anyone own a 1998 litespeed classic?

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Anonymous's picture
Anonymous

"my trek 2300 (with dura-ace 8sp sti) needed to be replaced (well, the frame did - last week i noticed the bonding ""broke"" near the seat clamp after the bike kept creaking). i finally decided after all these years (having owned steel, aluminum, carbon/aluminum and carbon/carbon) to get a titanium frame. new was out of the question. i checked ebay and there were a dozen titanium frames for sale. i bid on a 1998 litespeed classic (polished frame with new decals, full carbon reynolds ouzo pro fork, chris king headset, deda newton stem) and won...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7155342585

i spoke to the seller (who has 162 sales and a spotless 100% positive feedback rating) to be sure the frame was REALLY in good shape. should be here in a few days.

i'm going to transfer my stuff over from the old trek 2300 frame...assuming i don't run into any problems. hope my 8sp dura-ace hubs fit without problems. anyone know what the spacing is on that frame?

anyone have any advice on what bottom bracket to get? not interested in shaving grams (been there)...but i want something that i can have installed and not have to worry about and that won't creak. anyone know what the width/threading is on the bottom bracket?

also, any advice on seatpost and handlebar? the seat will be my titanium regal (sorry, no flyweight saddles for me!).

i guess i'll find out sure enough...hope it doesn't take me all summer to get the bike on the road. :)

thanks,
don"

Anonymous's picture
Evan Marks (not verified)
BB - Phil Wood

Set it and forget it.

Anonymous's picture
"Chainwheel" (not verified)
New Bike

"""my trek 2300 .... the bonding ""broke"" near the seat clamp""

Doesn't Trek's warranty cover that. A frame should last a good 20 years.

""also, any advice on seatpost and handlebar?""

Thomson seat post (check eBay). Alu handlebar and avoid ultra lightweight.

""anyone have any advice on what bottom bracket to get?""

Depends on crankset. If Shimano, you can't go wrong with Ultegra.

""Chainwheel""
"

Anonymous's picture
Steve Brain (not verified)
Trek warranty

Recently had a frame replacement from Trek on my 2001 Fuel mountain bike. Once I gave them proof of purchase (credit card statement in this case) they had no problem with giving me a new frame. Unless you've crashed the bike there is no reason they wouldn't replace.

Anonymous's picture
don montalvo (not verified)

the frame was bought at metro bicycles in the early 90's. i went through three of those bonded aluminum/carbon frames over the years (racing pretty much loosened them up - never crashed in a race though).

i'll look for thomson...i'm an american classic fan, but not sure if it'll transfer over from the trek. i've been compiling info on the trek and the litespeed. at some point i'll get it all together, compare and move forward.

i definitely don't want to make this project last longer than a week or two.

don

Anonymous's picture
Christian Edstrom (not verified)

The over-locknut distance of Dura-Ace 8sp hubs is 130mm. The frame spacing on the Lightspeed is 130mm. So you're good there.

> anyone have any advice on what bottom bracket to get?

Phil Wood. Dura-Ace 8sp had a square taper bb, so a Phil will work nicely. The Litespeed has a 68mm wide, English-thread bottom bracket shell. As to the length of the bb spindle, it's probably 107 or 110mm, but you'll have to figure that out yourself.

> also, any advice on seatpost and handlebar?

Salsa Shaft is a great post and has separate fore/aft and tilt adjustments.

I like Nitto handlebars, as they are strong and silver. Just don't get something <220 grams. The Nitto Dream (mod. 176) in 44cm is a very nice Maes-bend bar.

Cheers,
- Christian

Anonymous's picture
don montalvo (not verified)
that's a relief...

> The over-locknut distance of Dura-Ace 8sp hubs is 130mm.
> The frame spacing on the Lightspeed is 130mm. So you're
> good there.

...i have three wheel sets, all 8sp dura-ace 130mm. i'm waiting for the frame to be delivered this morning. then i guess i'll try to get the bottom bracket and seat post over.

thanks!
don

Anonymous's picture
Peter Storey (not verified)
Spacings, BB and CABLES

"A 1998 frame was probably built for 9-speed. But the hub spacings for 8 and 9 are the same, so your wheels should fit just fine.

As for a BB, Phils are wonderful, but very pricey. If I were you, I'd first try moving your D-A BB over. The Lightspeed looks to have straight chainstays, so your existing spindle is unlikely to be too short. If you decide you just have to have a ""no adjustment/no maintenance"" BB, I'd look for an Ultegra on ebay.

In any case (not that you asked) there is no spacing or threading difference between an 8-speed or 9-speed BB as such -- the only issue is the interface with the crank (tapered square peg vs. ""Octa-link"" splines), and a glance at your cranks will tell you what you need.

Also, few things have as pronounced an effect on how ""well-tuned"" a bike feels as the cables and housings. Unless you've replaced them in the very recent past, use this build-up as an opportunity to replace them all, including (especially!) the small loop of housing that feeds into the rear derailleur. Same with brake blocks: new ones can make a bike feel re-born.

Good Luck!

Peter Storey"

Anonymous's picture
don montalvo (not verified)

[edited...the chainstays on the old trek 2300 are also straight. -d]

the trek i'm retiring has a phil wood bb...not sure if it'll transfer over. i'm not a big fan of shimano or campy bottom brackets or headsets. i've always gone with phil wood and chris king. if i can't transfer the phil wood bottom braket over i'll buy a new one (steel).

cables/housing, chain and cassette (and possibly the chainrings) will be new as well. i have to see how much it'll cost. if it's too much, i'll see if i can pick up a new-in-box 8 or 9 speed d-a groupo.

the frame came today but i wasn't home for delivery. i'll go in late tomorrow so i can be here to receive it. wow, i hope my legs remember how to spin. :) been running mostly...

don

Anonymous's picture
Christian Edstrom (not verified)

Looks nice, Don!!!

One note - be sure to use anti-seize instead of grease on the Newton stem bolts, and to torque them with a torque wrench.

I have the same stem, and I like it, but it's a bit finicky.

Your bike looks great, and you clearly have good taste in saddles!

- Christian

Anonymous's picture
don montalvo (not verified)
thanks...

"...the stem bolts seemed to have had some locktite on them. i've always used traditional sadles (read: not the flyweight models).

ordered a new hac4 with cadence and computer (usb) kit on ebay for $305 and picked up two water bottles. hmmm...did i forget anything...

:)
don"

Anonymous's picture
don montalvo (not verified)
did the seller ever ride this thing?! :):):)

i can't believe the shape this frame/fork is in! the frame is absolutely spotless (i louped all the joints to make sure there are no hairline cracks). the fork was scratch free (having owned carbon stuff before, i know how easy that material is to scuff up).

i had the frame checked (alignment, etc.) and it's in perfect shape. ironically, the plastic cable guide under the bottom braket seem new or maybe the guy never rode this bike?!

i'm excited. the spacing is 130mm so i guess i'll be able to transfer my stuff without a problem. just need the bottom bracket and seat tube. i'll test my old bottom bracket and seat tube first. if it works, i'll only need to worry about the handlebar and cables/chain/chainwheel. if not, i'll buy that stuff new.

it's looking like i'll be on the road in a couple weeks. thanks to evan, chainwheel, steve, christian and peter for all the info and advice! i'll post again when i have more news!


don

Anonymous's picture
Christian Edstrom (not verified)

I got $5 that says the seatpost in both cases is 27.2mm and that the bottom bracket will fit fine. Same crank, right?

Congrats on your new purchase!

- Christian

Anonymous's picture
don montalvo (not verified)
glad i didn't bet. :)

"the bb (english) and seatpost (27.2) did carry over. yes, same crank ('94 or so dura-ace crank...before they rounded off the edges).

the deda newton stem requires a new handlebar (31.7mm) so i ordered a 44cm deda newton road bar.

don"

Anonymous's picture
Christian Edstrom (not verified)

Dura-Ace 7400. Best looking road double crank ever.

- Christian

Anonymous's picture
Evan Marks (not verified)
Nooooo...

...that would be the TA Zephyr.

Anonymous's picture
David Hallerman (not verified)
Both Right

Christian, Evan, IMO, you're both right.

* Dura-Ace 7400 (and 7402), best looking double crankset in the 130 BCD category

* TA Zephyr Light, best looking double crankset in the 110 BCD category.

David the Cranky, who also thinks the Sugino AT as a compact double has nice straight lines too like the early D-A ones

Anonymous's picture
don montalvo (not verified)
progress

"[edited 05/28/2005 - added group and fixed typos)

ok, so after running into bottom bracket, wheel and brake problems (don't ask, i guess the old components were falling apart). i did a lot of research and decided i wanted to stick to an all-shimano setup (minus the headset and hubs...i'll explain).

GROUP
i know there's mixed opinion on the need for high end components but i've always gone with dura-ace so that's what i got (dura-ace 10sp 2005 [7800] - 170/11-23/english/braze-on). dura-ace is easier to work with and are more durable. i honestly could have lived with an 8sp drivetrain (which is why i was more than willing to carry my old 8sp dura-ace stuff over) but 10sp is what's out there so i went with it (except for the pedals, seatpost, headset and hubset - which i think are the weak parts of the shimano dura-ace group).
http://dura-ace.shimano.com/publish/content/duraace/en/home/the_product0.html

WHEELS
i've always had an issue with wheels (hubs, rims, spokes, etc.) not lasting. face it...this is the north east and the roads are just crappy. so i decided to go with my gut instinct...third party wheels that won't break my budget but supports 130mm/10sp dura-ace drivetrain (oh - and they have to be quiet!). i settled for these $350/pair babies:
http://www.neuvationcycling.com/wheels/r350.html

TIRES
i never really worry about tires. they're all the same to me. my only concern is that i wanted folding tires...they're much easier to put on, etc. i settled for vittoria diamante carbon kevlar 700x23 at $40 a pop (oops). no worries about fancy light tubes...i went with generic tubes ($5/ea). tires:
http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=18354&srccode=2047

SEATPOST
after looking at various suggested seatposts, i settled for a specialized pave carbon 27.2 post for $110 (i probably overpaid for this component, i know, but it's a soft post and looks cool):
http://www.specialized.com/SBCEqProduct.jsp?spid=9874&JServSessionIdroot=412esh8o2q.j27011

HANDLEBAR
i looked at deda, fsa and easton handlebars. i fell in love with the fsa wing pro handlebar as soon as i put my hands on them. the flat top and more comfy rounded edges were nice. the bends were spot on. i had a hard time finding a 42cm bar though...finally found it and slapped some black cinelli cork tape on it...sweet!
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=BUY_PRODUCT_STANDARD&PRODUCT.ID=271&CATEGORY.ID=221&MODE=

CAGES
nothing beats a solid/light/clean set of king cages at $42 each:
http://www.bikeworld.com/components/catalog/product.html?pid=784&cat=22

COMPUTER
i'm going to use my old reliable polar s150 for now...might go with an hac4 titanium later (if someone has one to sell on ebay for cheap). the hac4 software is incredible (yes, i do have both a pc and a mac):
http://www.hac4.com/

well, i was hoping this project wouldn't hit my wallet too hard but given the sad shape of the components on my old trek, i had no choice but to get what i needed. i guess you don't know what can be wrong unless you disassemble things, especially after over 10 years of racing followed by six years of laziness.

i'm"

Anonymous's picture
Evan Marks (not verified)
soft seat post, huh?

Stiff but compliant?

Do you really believe that Zertz sh*t?

ROFLMAO!

Anonymous's picture
don montalvo (not verified)
well...

...it does seem to be a little softer. but then i haven't been on the bike much in the past couple years. my only hope is that the danged thing doesn't snap. i know a few people on mountain bikes who swear by this seatpost. they say its stifness falls between a plain carbon seatpost and one with a built in shock. better choice than aluminum for someone who's just getting back into cycling though.

i would have also went with a carbon handlebar but they're soooo expensive!

don

Anonymous's picture
Evan Marks (not verified)
Softer tires? Cushier saddle?

You'd notice those but for a seatpost to have any meaningful suspension it would have to be, well, a suspension seatpost. I mean, look at it - where exactly along it's exposed length is it going to flex? At those skinny sections surrounding the zertz insert? Can you imagine those flexing 1/4 inch? You better hope not 'cause it won't last longer than the time it takes to say newyorkcitypothole.

People who swear by something often need to justify the purchase price (Ksyriums come to mind immediately). It's difficult to admit that the high-zoot bike/component/tire/energy supplement/whatever is bogus - yes, I'm guilty of it too - but look at these reviews, particularly the last one:

http://www.roadbikereview.com/Seatposts/Specialized%20Bicycle/PRD_330521...

Anonymous's picture
don montalvo (not verified)
yikes! (nm)
Anonymous's picture
don montalvo (not verified)
on the road again...

"

well, i took the baby for a spin on sunday. the handlebar was incredibly comfortable (credit the flat top and the ergo bends). the bike was very stiff on the climbs. the new dura-ace cranks probably helped there with its wide spaced bearings.

i'm finally in a comfortable stretched out position (the old trek 2300 wasn't long enough even with a 120mm stem) but i'm still working on the saddle height/angle. a couple more rides and it should be fine.

i'm trying to decide if i want to use the polar s150 hrm/computer on the new bike. i never liked the polar user interface so i'm going to look into the hac4. for now i'll estimate everything.

here are some shots...




"

Anonymous's picture
scooter cop (not verified)

final cost, from frame to handlebar tape???

Anonymous's picture
don montalvo (not verified)
more than the price of a ticket (nm)
cycling trips