"Would you...fit a ti Seven or Litespeed with an S&S coupling?

Maybe. BTCs are a pricey add-on, so it depends on how often you'll actually fly the bike vs. how long you'll own it. BTCs also add about a 1/2 to 3/4 lb. to overall bike weight. Ride-wise, that's nothing, but it may (or may not) affect your ooh-aah-lift-it-with-a-finger perception of the bike.

I suspect that BTCs are more often found on steel bikes, especially tourers, because people expect to own them longer --- folks who go for the latest technology tend to trade up more frequently. Just a hypothesis; I have no data.

I am going to want to take my new bike (whatever it will be) with me everywhere. Why not make it portable?

A coupled bike in its case is not a small (or light) piece of luggage. The cases alone weighs well north of 10lbs. My impression is that most people who thought that they would pack and haul the bike for two-day business trips have been disappointed -- Bike Fridays, Airnimals and Swift Folders have tended to work out better. The i-BOB archives have covered this ground extensively.

How long does it take to dissassemble or reassemble the bike?

My coupled bike is a tourer. FWIW, I need at least 1.5 hours to (dis/re)assemble it each time, but that includes dealing with fenders, front and rear racks, and lights, as well as keeping track of numerous small bolts, keeping touring tools separate from ""case"" tools, etc. It's also a tall bike, so I have to pull the right crank, turn the stem backwards, pull the seatpost, etc. It's worth it for a vacation, but rarely for a weekend.

OTOH, I would guess that an unaccessorized modern racing bike in a small size could be in or out of the case in under a 1/2 hour. It does go faster with practice.

Relative to your other thread, 650c wheels will make the bike easier to pack.

How careful do you have to be in moving it around?

Mine has flown the Atlantic seven times in an S&S soft (backpack) case, each time without damage other than some paint chips around the drop-outs. Pack carefully, add prayers, and you should be OK.

I hear that . . . to fit in a small suitcase the left crank arm must be removed.

Actually, it's the right crank. Not because of the crank arm, but because the radius of the chainrings makes the frame effectively taller.

Check your measurements carefully. If I understand the design of the new 10-sp Dura-Ace/Ultegra cranks, you can't remove the right crank without removing the bottom bracket as well. I don't think I'd want to have to do that, especially as the resulting crank/BB unit is an odd shape to have to jigsaw into the case. For conventional cranks, self-extracting crank bolts are a great convenience.

Also, if packing may be tight, you might want to ask Seven/Lightspeed/whomever about the advisability of repeated assembling and disassembling carbon seatposts, bars, stems and steerers. I pose the question in ignorance: I don't own any carbon parts myself, but I'm mindful of all the dire warnings that the Mfrs slather all over this stuff.

Also, only round tubing may be used in making the frame

And the draw back is . . .? I seem to recall that nothing beats a round tube for strength and stiffness relative to the amount (weight) of material used, and that the ""benefits"" of aero profiling are negligible except on no-drafting TT bikes. But I'm sure someone will disagree -- vociferously, no doubt.

Hope this helps
"

since numerous ti builders offer the btc couplers (seven, serotta, ti cycles, merlin, dean, etc. -- don't know about lightspeed however) what do you perceive as the down-side to getting the btc's? weight? they weigh less than an extra, filled waterbottle. cost? ok, they're about $400+ depending on the work done on installing them (i had mine custom-carved and polished to match my lugs), but saving $80 each way on shipping a full-size bike adds up if you travel frequently.

you don't need to be any more careful with a btc-coupled bike than a non-coupled bike. in terms of riding the bike is as secure and stable when riding as a non-coupled bike. in terms of travel, other than the caveats i mention below i've used the soft case with no problems travelling to florida and italy.

it takes me about 20 minutes to pack or unpack my single-speed. add about 5 minutes for my derailleured bike. you won't need to take your crankarm off to fit it in the case. i don't and your bikes are smaller than mine.

i've heard (admittedly from a btc builder) the ritchey break-away isn't quite as secure due to smaller area of contact and stuff like that. but this may be more theoretical than actual.

the only advice i have on btc-coupled bikes: get the hardshell case. i got the backpack case and it gets heavy on your back after a brief time. plus, it's wide and cumbersome. you don't make many friends with it while moving through a crowed airport and i've banged into doors when i'm not paying attention.

caveats on btc-coupled bikes: in this day of the t.s.a. geniuses inspecting everything, expect your case to be opened and everything taken apart to check for explosives and contraband. not only did they open mine, they took apart my bullseye hubs (you only need a small allen-key to disassemble them). i kid you not. another time they bent my spokes when they put my wheel back in the case and closed it. and they scratched both my bikes, but if you're getting a ti frame that's not a problem.

rob

Carol, just returned from Mallorca with 2 riders that brought bikes with S&S couplers. One was a Ti, the other steel. They said it was stressful assembling and disassembling the bikes. The amount of time it takes depends upon how often it's done. I must admit, though heavy, it was easier for them lugging the S&S case than a regular hard shell.

While rereading Carol's initial post, I saw that the tubing must be round. The frame in question is an ovalized aluminum Raleigh R-800, thereby relegating my question to mere academic interest.

Gary