I need to choose between a 12-23 and 12-25 cassette. I've resigned myself to the 12t just because it's rare that I ever spin-out a 12. The choice between the 23 and 25 is a different story. Choosing the 23 means I'll gain a 16t - hence, making a smoother transition from the 15 to 17 (a difficult leap at times). Choosing the 25, on the other hand, gives me one final prayer on one of those long, steep, God-forsaken climbs when the devil has weakened the heart/mind or both. It also brings the 23 into the rotation more easily without fear of the dreaded spoke-rub (I know, I know...if I kept everything adjusted properly I wouldn't have to worry about it. Well, if I wasn't a mere mortal I'd never have to use the 23 in the first place either). Actually, just writing this is therapeutic and mind-clearing. I'm inclined, if not convinced, that the 12-23 is the way to go. I'll use that 16t alot more than the 25, but, than again, the 16 won't bail me out like a 25 could. Hmmmm....see the dilemma? Opinions?
12-23 or 12-25?
Get a triple.
Thanks John, that's pretty constructive. What a great message board.
Ob:
I think we need a little more info in order to help you with your dilemma.
If you are a strong rider and do most of your riding in the Tri-State area or comparable terrain(somewhat hilly but not mountainous), you can probably get away with a 23. If neither of the previous statements apply to you, you might be better off with the 25.
Thanks for the response Tom. Yeah, I mostly bike in the Tri-state area and am reasonably fit. For reference: on the River Road hill up to the police station I eventually end up in a 21 - some days early, some days later (avg.9-10mph). By that measure, you could argue that the 25 is unnecessary(I rarely ever use my 23 around the T-state area). The problem arises when I'm on the occasional away game, say in western Pa. or mts of NCarolina where sustained grades have a way of ....well, you know the rest.
ob, you could do what i do: around here i ride my 12-23. when i go away to do a hilly ride i put on the 12-25. (i also normally ride around here with a 42 up front and swap that for a 39 on hilly trips.)
so, my advice would be to get the 12-23 now, then purchase the 12-25 when you need it before you go away.
Not to be a smartass, but the Campy 10-speed 12-25 cassette has a 16t cog. In fact, that's one of the chief points that Bicycling mag made in an article a while ago about why the 10 is worth having.
I haven't read Bicycling mag but find it interesting that they placed value in having the 16t. I'm still milking my old 8 spd from yesteryear (20.5lbs w/pedals) and find that move from 17 to 15 just a touch too tall sometimes.
According to the QBP catalog:
12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21
12,13,14,15,17,19,21,23 (no 16)
12,13,15,17,19,21,23,25 (no 14 either)
"As long as folks insist on having every possible gear ratio, ""Shimpagnolo"" will continue the gear wars. This will result in equipment going obsolete every few years and poorer durability due to thinner cogs/chains and increased wheel dish. All because Bicycling (does anyone still read that rag?) says we NEED a 16T cog.
Regards,
""Chainwheel""
"
Without comment on the overall quality of this publication. which is so clearly a warm friend of the cycling industry, they didn't say we NEEDED a 16t cog. What they said is that it's a smooth and convenient cross-over point between the big and small rings. When they said it, I already owned the 10, and by gum, they were right.
Thanks for the feedback folks. It's good to just think outloud sometimes, but even better to have some other insights as well.
I agreee with John Z- solve the problem by getting a triple. You'll get your 16T. You should also get a crank/chainwheel setup that gives you 10t jumps between the middle and outer rings. The 14T jump (39>53)normally seen on dual chainrings is almost as big a pain as missing the 16T cog in the back.
I agreee with John Z- solve the problem by getting a triple. You'll get your 16T. You should also get a crank/chainwheel setup that gives you 10t jumps between the middle and outer rings. The 14T jump (39>53)normally seen on dual chainrings is almost as big a pain as missing the 16T cog in the back.
I got a triple AND a 12-25 for my Cannondale last year. This allows me to climb any hill in the state. Your experince may vary. I don't care to have to swap out cassettes and rings as part of my bike maintenance
If you're going from a 12x23 to a 12x25 9spd cassette, you might also consider the 12x26 cassette from SRAM. More meaningful bail-out going from 23 to 26 than 25 and less extreme than a 27.
If you need just a little more than a 23, consider a 38t inner ring if you're running a 130BCD. If you go to the 38t, you might also consider a 52t big ring rather than the stock 53t. If you went to a 110BCD, then you have even more flexibility and may not even need a triple.
The Feb. 24 VeloNews pictures (P. 65) George Hincapie's bike for the coming year and states its parts. He trains with a 12-25 and usually rides an 11-23. So now you and all the other writers to this thread can evaluate yourselves alongside him.
-Richard Rosenthal
"I didn't have time to read every response to your question. Forgive me if I've said something you already heard. The following is a quote from a free downloadable e-book you can get from www.RoadBikeRider.com:
""Use appropriate gears. If your favorite pro climber uses a 39x21-tooth gear on a given climb, why are you tackling similar gradients in the 23?
EXAMPLE! Look at it this way: Pro riders can be competitive on any climb if they produce 6-7 watts of power per kilogram of body weight. If they weigh 70 kg (154 pounds) they need to churn out 420 to 490 watts. The average pro can generate more than 400 watts on medium-length climbs. Lance Armstrong generates in excess of 500 watts in a 35- to 40-minute climb. The average masters-age racer, in contrast, manages 250 to 300 watts.
So the question becomes: If Lance is putting out almost twice as much power on a climb, why are you using a gear only 2 teeth easier?
Get a 27-tooth big cog, or swallow your false pride and invest in a triple crankset. Then you’ll be able to keep your cadence above 80 rpm, save your knees—and climb faster than you would if you were slogging away in the 23.""
I've been using a 27t large cog for years. I've never been too fussy about the gaps between cogs, just getting a low enoug h low. You can get used to anything.
"
