Can anyone please describe the best technique for putting on a new tyre (clincher). I'm fine at putting back old tyres after changing tubes, but the new ones seem to kill my fingers and I obviously don't have either the strength or the technique, or both, and I should be ashamed to admit this publicly, but I'm not.
Ok, here's the problem: I bought a nice pair of yellow Vredestein Fortezza tri-comps, I've been using this type for three and a half years and like them a lot. Having got the new tyre on and tiring my fingers in the process, I checked to make sure the tube wasn't pinched, but I guess I didn't look closely enough as the tube exploded when I pumped it up with the track-pump. Having now put another tube in, I just cannot get the last six inches of tyre back on as my fingers are now too tired and lack the strength. Yet I see other people do this in a matter of seconds, so what's the technique. I'm reluctant to use a lever, because that invariably nicks the tube and I don't want to have to take the tube out again and get the patches out. If anyone can successfully help me with this, I will happily buy them a drink, or even a new tyre.
Many thanks
Anthony
Changing Tyres
If you put air into the tube to give it shape while mounting the tire, deflate it completely for the last step.
Make sure both tire beads are as deep as possible into the center well of the rim at a spot 180 degrees OPPOSITE the place where you're trying to stretch the tire - this will give you the greatest amount of slack. Note that valve stem should be 90 degrees away from where you're working as it prevents you from getting the beads deep enough into the center of the rim.
After you stretch the tire once, it's easier to mount it the next time.
"Hi Anthony--When u spell tires ""tyres"" you're telling everyone that you're English!
I also am not a good tire changer. I now have Armadillo tires, they are flat resistant--i did have 2 flats in 5,000 miles--one was because the tire was worn out & the other was caused by a large pointed bolt entering the side of the tire. I dont notice any decrease in riding efficiency. I also used thorn resistant heavy duty tubes on my touring bike in my recent 950 ride Memphis to Mpls with no flats--these tubes are definitely heavier and the ride might be slower."
Thank you both for the advice, which is much-appreciated. I cheated in the end and asked my father-in-law this morning, who has unbelievably strong fingers, and he managed it straight away. I knew there had to be a technique to it, rather than just relying on brute force and ignorance.
A couple of weeks ago, I changed the tube in the old tyre and I had absolutely no difficulty at all in getting it back on.
Yes, my use of the English spelling gives the game away. Old habits die hard. Even though my frame was made in the USA and bought in London, I still prefer to say it is made out of aluminium. Manhattan is home to 1.25m people and at least one cycling Englishman.
The irritating thing is that the tyre I replaced was only a couple of months old, but I did a ride last Saturday in cold, soggy conditions with lots of grit and muck, and probably broken glass too, which put a nice hole in the tyre and exposed the tube, but fortunately it did not puncture.
I think a winter road tyre might be a good idea, and leave the Vredestein's for better weather. I'm still happy with the Vredestein Fortezzas though, as I often tend to get 3,500 miles out of them puncture free before they are useless, which I think is pretty good going for a road tyre. And they give me confidence with their holding abilities on sharp corners. I also saw a pair whizz by me at 69mph coming off the Jura mountains three and a half years ago, ridden by one of my certifiable friends I was riding with at the time. I braked at 59mph, feeling somewhat scared.
The offer of the new bike tyre still stands. Please e-mail me. But I'm not going to provide new tyres to everyone who subsequently responds to this thread. Sorry.
Thanks again
Anthony
"Now made in Thailand. The last batch coming out of Holland was defective (lumpy), which the distributor claimed was caused by disgruntled workers who found out that production was being moved to the Far East and they'd probably lose their jobs. These say ""Handmade in Holland"" on the sidewall. Caveat emptor.
Have not tried the new batch made in Thailand yet.
"
Evan,
That's very interesting about Fortezza quality issues....I guess I now know why I paid $50 each for two of them (650's) in my LBS one day and bought two online a month or so later for $25 each!
(I still haven't opened the ones I bought online so haven't even had a chance to notice any inferior quality).
The first two I bought were recommended as suitable for triathlon/biathlon racing.
Basil
You won't *see* any defects but you'll feel it as soon as you start to ride (lump, lump, lump, lump).
I've heard that the distributor will send you a refund in exchange for the section of tire with the label on it (no need to return the whole tire), but can't verify that personally.
I had a lumpy Fortezza last year on my back tyre, which was bought in London, and I could never figure out what was wrong with it. I replaced it just a couple of months ago, with the tyre that I wrecked last Saturday. I thought it may have been a tube defect, but changing the tube made no difference. I thought it was just a one off as the other one I bought at the time and put on the front was fine. I got used to it in the end. In a bizarre sought of way I actually quite liked it, but don't miss it now.
The new ones just say 'Handmade', rather than 'Handmade in Holland'. I shall report on how I find them.
One thing I have noticed is that the two yellow tyres I bought are a very different shade of yellow: one is bright buttercup yellow and the other is a kind of lighter lemony yellow.
Yes, the first few inches removing and the last few inches installing are the hardest.
I just bought the Crank Brothers Speed Lever. Compared to regular levers, it works better, though not perfectly on removing/installing tyres.
It’s a telescoping lever – you attach one end to the rim, telescope the other end and snap it on to the hub and simply rotate. Friction becomes your enemy, so baby powder or saliva on the tyre help a lot.
Performance sells it for $5.99 – here’s the site:
http://www.performancebike.com/shop/Profile.html?SKU=2058
G’luck, S
I used to have one of these when I was in England, but it got lost in the move over. I only ever used it on my then commuting bike, just to get the tyre off and never tried it to put one back on with it.
I seem to recall having it for quite a long time, but only got the chance to use it twice, after replacing a pair of Continental Top Touring tyres, which had given me fantastic service for 12,000 miles without a single puncture. These tyres are excellent for touring or hybrid bikes riden on city streets with all the broken glass and other nasty stuff that's out there there.
Would you believe that I've just found my Speed Lever at the back of a draw I don't open very often.
As others have already said, inflate tube just enought to round it out to prevent pinching. Then coat tube and inside of tire with baby powder. The powder keeps the rubber from sticking and helps the tire slide over the rim. Get the bead deep into the rim to create slack.
There is another tire iron sold through Terry bicycles specifically made to pry tires onto rims. It works pretty well.
